There are mashed potatoes, and then there are mashed potatoes with lore.
For October’s The Foyer Cookbook Club, we’re digging into Cuisine To Kill For, a cookbook where the recipes come with a little history attached. This Colcannon is exactly the kind of dish that earns its place on an October table: creamy potatoes, tender cabbage, plenty of butter, and a centuries-old Halloween tradition hiding in the background.
In other words: comfort food with a plot.
Meet Colcannon
Colcannon is a traditional Irish dish made with mashed potatoes, cabbage or hardy greens, scallions, milk or cream, and butter. It’s humble, hearty, and very good at making cold-weather dinners feel instantly more civilized.
The recipe in Cuisine To Kill For traces back to an adaptation of an 1890 cookbook, The Cook’s Oracle; and Housekeeper’s Manual by William Kitchiner, M.D.
But the part that makes it especially fitting for October? In Ireland, colcannon has long been associated with Halloween.
Small trinkets were sometimes tucked into the dish as a way of predicting the year ahead. A ring could mean marriage was coming. A coin suggested wealth.
Dinner and divination. Efficient.
Colcannon
Mary Gallagher Corner
A traditional Irish dish, colcannon was first referenced in print by a Welsh writer in 1735. But the dish likely dates back to the earliest introduction of potatoes in Ireland and would have been a staple in immigrant kitchens in Griffintown. The version I’ve adapted comes from the 1890 cookbook The Cook’s Oracle; and Housekeeper’s Manual by William Kitchiner, M.D.
Prep Time: 10 minutes
Cook Time: 30 minutes
Yield: 4–6 servings
Ingredients
- 2 pounds potatoes, peeled and roughly cubed
- 1 tablespoon salt, plus more, to taste
- 8 tablespoons butter, divided, plus more for greasing
- 3 cups shredded green cabbage or other hardy greens
- 3 scallions, finely sliced, white and green parts separated
- 1 cup milk or cream
- ½ teaspoon black pepper, more or less, to taste
Instructions
-
In a large saucepan, place the potatoes and salt, and cover fully with water by an inch or so. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Cook until the potatoes are fork-tender, about 15–20 minutes. Drain in a colander and set aside, allowing the potatoes to rest for at least 5 minutes.
-
As the potatoes cool, return the pan to the stove. Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter over medium heat. Add the cabbage and the white parts of the scallions. Sauté lightly until softened, about 4–5 minutes.
-
Add the milk to the pan. Heat until warm, about 1 minute more.
-
Remove the pan from the heat and add the potatoes to the cabbage mixture. Mash until the mixture is smooth, adding 4 more tablespoons of the butter incrementally as you go. If the potatoes aren’t smooth enough, add a dash more milk. Keep in mind, the potatoes will absorb more liquid after they sit for a few minutes.
-
When the texture is smooth, mix in the green scallion slices, reserving some for garnish. Season the mixture to taste with salt and pepper.
-
Transfer the mixture to a serving dish. Make a hollow in the center of the mixture, add the remaining 2 tablespoons butter as a topping that will melt as you serve, and garnish with the remaining scallions.
Notes
In America, colcannon is popular around St. Patrick’s Day in March, but in Ireland, it’s traditionally enjoyed on Halloween. The dish isn’t just delicious, it’s portentous: If a person found one of the hidden trinkets inside colcannon on Halloween night, it was believed to foretell that person’s coming year. A ring meant an impending marriage; a coin meant wealth was coming soon.
Why This Recipe Works for October
Not every Halloween recipe needs frosting, food coloring, or a plastic spider nearby.
Colcannon gets its seasonal credentials the old-fashioned way: history, superstition, and an unreasonable amount of butter.
The cabbage adds a little bite to the creamy potatoes, scallions keep things fresh, and the final knob of butter melting into the center makes the whole dish feel generous in exactly the right way.
Serve it beside roast chicken or sausages, or make it the main event with a fried egg on top.
Simple. Cozy. Slightly prophetic.
Why We Picked Cuisine To Kill For
What makes Cuisine To Kill For such a strong October Cookbook Club pick is that it doesn’t need to force the theme.
The stories are already there.
Recipes come tied to places, people, traditions, and the occasional eerie detail, which makes the book feel less like a standard cookbook and more like something you actually want to sit down and read between recipes.
That is very much our kind of October.